Blast from the past: magnum Bordeaux dinner October 2005
March 5, 2011
On October 15 in Frankfurt, I participated in a tasting organized by my good friend Harry H. Hochheimer, a passionate wine and gastronomy consultant based in Frankfurt, Germany and who, each year I think for the past few years, organizes a wine tasting called: Bordeaux : Die Mutter aller Rotweine or “Bordeaux: The Mother of all red wines”
The tasting took place at a discrete yet well known location for Frankfurt-based wine and food lovers, Das Restaurant Maingau and was accompanied by a delicious 10- course dinner. Incidentally, later this month, I will be moderating a massive Bordeaux dinner with Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Clos Fourtet, Poujeaux and Le Crock at the same location on 24 March – more information HERE.
A few words about the owners of the establishment: Since 1950 Elke Doepfner and her family has owned the hotel and restaurant, which since about 15 years has gained a reputation for its very good wine list (from South African to Bordeaux) and attractive cellar space.
Tasting notes: wines in bold I liked, in red and bold I really liked, and when underlined, something to seek out for certain!
After enjoying a glass of Pichon Baron’s 2004 rose wine, which tasted accordingly fresh and strawberry-like, we tasted the only dry white of the evening — and a surprising performance from Chateau de Fieuzal Pessac Leognan 1998 from a magnum bottle: Intense citrus aromas between grapefruit and lemon grass, with some oak-derived toasty notes as well. Pleasing. In past tastings of this wine, I have been disappointed, but last night, it sang. Perhaps not as full-bodied as it should be, but quite nice with structure and some grace.
These two wines were served in the restaurant cellar space, where Harry gave an introduction to all concerned, including chef Jörg Döpfner, son of the owners. His food was fabulous, particularly a roast beef finger food starter on a bed of a carrot and ginger purree.
The main event happened two floors up, where we were seated in a special dining room, with wine corks decorating the candle-lit table. On our way to the tasting, 20 magnum bottles greeted us…
Chateau Liversan Haut Medoc 2000 and Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac 1999
Interesting pair to serve together. While the Liversan proved more drinkable today by itself, it certainly could not match the stuffing of the Pichon. What I liked about the first wine was its fine structure and balance between acidity and fat. It was nice to drink, a pleasure and very Bordeaux if you will. The Pichon on the other hand was far richer, oozing dark cherry flavors with an almost too much rich texture for me on the palate. The nose was dominated by toasty-oak derived notes and almost tasted modern in comparison to the Liversan. But that is the only slight critique I could level against the Pichon which will outlast the Liversan and only improve in bottle. The Pichon went better with the first entree: a BRILLIANT large seared scallop on a bed of squid-ink risotto, which I practically lapped up it was so good — the richness of the Pichon matched this better. Who says you cannot match red wine with seafood? An interesting note: Washington DC-based blogger Ian Lipner graciously invited me to dinner at Ris Restaurant (late February 2011) where we enjoyed a… Pichon Baron 1999, from a regular format bottle, 6 years later. Would you believe that it had a still very youthful profile? This is a great Bordeaux estate whose wines evolve at glacial paces, even this more flattering vintage.
Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc 1998 and Chateau Palmer Margaux 1997
Call it a king and queen matchup, with the Palmer playing the feminine role… The Sociando Mallet had more structure than the Pichon 1999 but was also — in comparison — rather tight. Showed strength and finesse, but thought it was rather a shame to open it now especially in a magnum format. As for the Palmer, this was one of my wines of the evening (though not THE wine of the evening): velvety, sensual texture and aromatic though slightly short (sign of the vintage). A pleasure to drink however and it went very well with the goose liver terrine.
Chateau Chasse-Spleen Moulis 1996 and Chateau Lynch Bages Pauillac 1995
Okay, the Lynch Bages managed to blend the suave quality of the Palmer with the structure and power of the Sociando Mallet — not to mention a length superior to both — and thus earn its WOTN status. Bravo! In comparison, the Chasse Spleen was downright thin and somewhat forgettable. Perhaps it was an off bottle? Oh, and this course was also one of my favorites of the dinner: a huge shrimp on a bed of mushroom risotto. I have tasted the Lynch Bages 1995 on subsequent occasions and it is indeed a lovely wine. The Chinese market has unfortunately driven up prices on Lynch Bages.
Chateau Canon-La-Gaffeliere Saint Emilion 1994 and Chateau Haut Bailly Leognan 1993
Yes here we have reached two wines ready to drink, and the Haut Bailly won hands down. Likely due to a problematic bottle with the CLG, which smelled slightly metallic… So I reserve judgement. The Haut Bailly on the other hand was showing soft and silky. I remember trying this bottle back in 1997 and being disappointed (wet dog), but this time it was very nice, its softness and smooth tannins a perfect match for the monkfish filet and tarragon-flavored noodles. It reminded me somewhat of a La Mission Haut Brion 1993 tasted in Bordeaux in 2002, which was also soft and fine.
Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 1992 and Chateau La Mission Haut Brion (75cl) 1988 and Pavillion Rouge of Chateau Margaux 1991
Two weak vintages and one good vintage yielded predictable results with the LMHB 1988 – not from magnum – being one of my favorite wines of the night, close to the Lynch Bages 1995, but not quite as good! I remember smooth tobacco aromas and flavors coming from the LMHB but it did not have quite the body of the Lynch Bages. As for the LMHB 1992, quite nice… for a 1992! I had lost my notes from this tasting so my remarks came from memory… I do remember that the Pavillion Rouge 1991 was rather thin. A coq au vin with corn pudding went best with the 1988 LMHB, as its still present tannins were a good foil to the sweetness of the corn pudding and relative zest of the chicken
Chateau Duhart Milon Rothschild Pauillac 1990, Chateau Haut Marbuzet Saint Estephe 1989 and Chateau L’Arrossé Saint Emilion 1988
The best of the three was the first wine, showing good structure, finesse and decent length, but again not among the top wines of the evening. Good, perhaps very good, but not great. The Haut Marbuzet disappointed me a bit: Yes, it was rather full-bodied with bits of chocolate and some spice, but it seemed to lack flavor precision and especially structure. Liked it, but not overwhelmed. I liked the Arrossé more than the Haut Marbuzet as it showed more structure, like its elements came together better. A pleasant wine to drink, but the Duhart Milon’s medium tannins and acidity went best with the lean game filet!
Chateau Les Ormes de Pez Saint Estephe 1986, Chateau Calon Segur Saint Estephe 1983 and Chateau Nenin Pomerol 1982
I was looking very much forward to this lineup and was not disappointed but suprised! First off, the best wine BY FAR was the Les Ormes de Pez, and very likely among the top three of the night for me: power, flavor intensity and structure with a good length. Bravo! Another fine 86 that I have had from Bordeaux, and it went VERY well with the lamb and ratatouille. Now the Calon Segur was good, but seemed to be on the verge of decline. It had an edgy feel to it, though the flavors were good. I was surprised by the Nenin. It was smooth and not lacking in good taste. No, not the most intense wine of the evening, but not bad at all! A nice trio.
Chateau Giscours Margaux 1975 and Les Forts de Latour (second wine of Chateau Latour) Pauillac 1971
Both of these wines proved surprising. I know that Harry has a great private cellar, at 10 degrees Celsius year round. So I was surprised with the Giscours not impressing me that much, after all I have read about how good this wine should be… It was good but if I had to give out a point score, only a solid 88 and not an inch more. A bit hard and tannic, though flavorful, it was totally outshined by — SURPRISE — a top three wine this evening for me, easily, the Les Forts de Latour 1971, which had character and flavor. Very smooth and agreeable to drink. And then I thought: GEES, if this is how Latour’s second wine tastes in … 1971, imagine how the first wine tastes!
Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 1996
Fresh, sweet and rich is how I enjoyed this Sauternes. I like the 96s I have tried thus far from Sauternes and this one was not an exception. Even coming from a magnum, this wine can be enjoyed today. No tightness at all. Of course, coming after all the red wines, it was a pleasure to drink a cool white sticky…
For his preparation and pouring, HATS OFF to sommelier Oliver Weiss, also a Frankfurt-based wine consultant. And to Jörg Döpfner, the chef and son of restaurant owners Elke and Werner Döpfner. His food was really something special. If ever in Frankfurt, do check out the Restaurant Maingau. How about on 24 March?
Oh yes, and I thought Harry was joking, but he said that we would all enjoy a PILS beer at the end… zum Schluss.
TOP THREE WINES
Chateau Lynch Bages 1995, First place
Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 1988, Second place
Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 1986, Tie for Third place Les Forts de Latour 1971, Tie for Third place Chateau Palmer 1997, Tie for Third place
Text and photos by Panos Kakaviatos – Copyrighted
